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Mouse's Toe-up Sock Pattern
Note:
This isn't a "pattern" so much as it's a set of guidelines. Think, and you'll do fine. I'd write a normal numbers pattern - actually, I already did - but I get a fairly absurd gauge (11 st/in) and I know most don't. This works better.
This is written for two socks at once on Magic Loop, but it's not a tutorial on either technique; there are much better ones out there I couldn't hope to improve upon.
You won't need to swatch, but there exists the very slight possibility that your sock will behave strangely after washing. If you have reason to think that might happen, swatch and wash the swatch as you would wash the socks.
Materials:
One 32" or 40" circular needle
Fingering-weight (or your preference) yarn, approximately 100 grams, split into two balls
Ruler
Before you start:
Measure your foot's length, while standing with your full weight on it. You will need this measurement later.
Measure the circumference of your foot around the ball and closer to your ankle.
Record all measurements.
Two-at-once Turkish CO instructions:
Tie a slip knot in the end of each skein of yarn.
Holding the two needle ends parallel, place one slip knot on the bottom needle. Wrap the yarn over the top needle and back around, 20 (or as preferred) times total. Hold in place.
Place the second slip knot on the bottom needle and repeat wrapping sequence.
Pull bottom needle out so that wraps are on the top needle and the cord. Knit across the top needle with the bottom needle, making sure to switch skeins when you reach the second set of wraps.
Turn work, and knit across the other side.
Toe:
Turn work. Begin increase rounds:
On each sock, *kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb. Repeat on other side of each sock.
Knit two rounds plain.
Repeat from * a few more times.
At this point, measure your gauge and compare it to your foot circumference. For a snug sock, multiply the gauge (say, 8 sts/in) by the circumference (say, 8") and remove 10% of the stitches (leaving about 58 stitches in this example). You may remove more than 10% for a snugger fit (I do) but try on the socks frequently just in case.
Continue increasing until you've reached that number or just below that number (you can always, always increase later for a perfect-for-you fit).
Foot:
Knit even, increasing if necessary to maintain fit.
Gusset Increases:
Note the current stitch count before beginning increases.
Begin approximately 3" from end of foot, based on standing measurement.
*Kfb, k to last sole st, kfb, k across instep sts on each sock
K one round plain
Repeat from * as many times as it takes to nearly double the original number of sole stitches (ie 30 becomes 56 or 58 or 60; 25 becomes 48 or 50; etc). For those with high arches or tall insteps, double the number. For those with low arches or thin insteps, fewer gusset increases will be necessary, and you may want to begin them later or space them differently (k two rounds plain, for instance) to ensure the sock is long enough for your foot.
Round heel:
On first sock, k across first set of gusset stitches, then across original heel stitches (OHSs), stopping before last OHS. Wrap and turn.
P across OHSs, stopping before last OHS, w&t.
K across OHSs, stopping one stitch before wrapped stitch, w&t.
Repeat, short-rowing inward until you have reduced the number of OHSs to about 1/3rd (or preference for rounder or less rounded heel).
RS row: K across center sts, then wrapped sts, picking up and knitting wrap with each stitch SSK-style. Knit last wrapped stitch together with first gusset stitch. Turn.
Sl1, purl across to first wrapped stitch on other side, then p across wrapped stitches, picking up and purling wrap with each stitch. Purl last wrapped stitch together with first gusset stitch. Turn.
*Sl1, k across OHSs to last OHS, SSK (with next gusset stitch). Turn.
Sl 1, p across OHSs to last OHS, p2tog (with next gusset stitch). Turn.
Repeat from * until all gusset stitches are used.
Repeat on second sock. Both socks should return to stitch count noted down before the gusset increases.
Cuff:
Knit one round plain (turn work if necessary; begin to increase or decrease if necessary for larger or smaller ankles) on each sock, then begin 3x1 ribbing as follows:
*P1, k3, repeat around sock.
Continue until socks are preferred height or yarn runs out.
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
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